TY - GEN
T1 - Long-term beach profile variations under wave and wind actions
AU - Udo, K.
PY - 2008
Y1 - 2008
N2 - Wave and wind impacts on long-term backshore profile variations were evaluated through field observations of daily beach profile and wave, tide, and wind conditions at an open-ocean dissipative beach in Japan from 1988 to 1997. Indices of wave and wind impacts were defined by wave run-up level and wind-driven sand transport rate, respectively. The results show that long-term beach profile variation was related to wave run-up rate defined by the fraction of time that the wave run-up level exceeds the bed elevation. The wave impact on backshore profile could not be ignored where the wave run-up rate was larger than 0.4%. Wave-induced accretion during extreme event due to low pressure system is a significant factor of the backshore sedimentation.
AB - Wave and wind impacts on long-term backshore profile variations were evaluated through field observations of daily beach profile and wave, tide, and wind conditions at an open-ocean dissipative beach in Japan from 1988 to 1997. Indices of wave and wind impacts were defined by wave run-up level and wind-driven sand transport rate, respectively. The results show that long-term beach profile variation was related to wave run-up rate defined by the fraction of time that the wave run-up level exceeds the bed elevation. The wave impact on backshore profile could not be ignored where the wave run-up rate was larger than 0.4%. Wave-induced accretion during extreme event due to low pressure system is a significant factor of the backshore sedimentation.
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M3 - Conference contribution
AN - SCOPUS:84858129773
SN - 9780415441674
T3 - River, Coastal and Estuarine Morphodynamics: RCEM 2007 - Proceedings of the 5th IAHR Symposium on River, Coastal and Estuarine Morphodynamics
SP - 79
EP - 84
BT - River, Coastal and Estuarine Morphodynamics
T2 - 5th IAHR-Symposium on River, Coastal and Estuarine Morphodynamics, RCEM 2007
Y2 - 17 September 2007 through 21 September 2007
ER -