TY - JOUR
T1 - Shock-capturing Boussinesq-type model for nearshore wave processes
AU - Roeber, Volker
AU - Cheung, Kwok Fai
AU - Kobayashi, Marcelo H.
N1 - Funding Information:
This study is funded by the National Science Foundation Grant No. 0530759 through the Network for Earthquake Engineering Simulation. The US Army Corps of Engineers and the National Tsunami Hazard Mitigation Program provided additional support through Contract Nos. W912HZ-09-C-0085 and NA09NWS4670016 , respectively. SOEST Contribution No. 7863.
Copyright:
Copyright 2010 Elsevier B.V., All rights reserved.
PY - 2010/4
Y1 - 2010/4
N2 - This paper describes the formulation and validation of a nearshore wave model for tropical coastal environment. The governing Boussinesq-type equations include the conservative form of the nonlinear shallow-water equations for shock capturing. A Riemann solver supplies the inter-cell flux and bathymetry source term, while a Godunov-type scheme integrates the evolution variables in time. The model handles wave breaking through momentum conservation with energy dissipation based on an eddy viscosity concept. The computed results show very good agreement with laboratory data for wave propagation over a submerged bar, wave breaking and runup on plane beaches as well as wave transformation over fringing reefs. The model accurately describes transition between supercritical and subcritical flows as well as development of dispersive waves in the processes.
AB - This paper describes the formulation and validation of a nearshore wave model for tropical coastal environment. The governing Boussinesq-type equations include the conservative form of the nonlinear shallow-water equations for shock capturing. A Riemann solver supplies the inter-cell flux and bathymetry source term, while a Godunov-type scheme integrates the evolution variables in time. The model handles wave breaking through momentum conservation with energy dissipation based on an eddy viscosity concept. The computed results show very good agreement with laboratory data for wave propagation over a submerged bar, wave breaking and runup on plane beaches as well as wave transformation over fringing reefs. The model accurately describes transition between supercritical and subcritical flows as well as development of dispersive waves in the processes.
KW - Boussinesq-type equations
KW - Breaking waves
KW - Fringing reefs
KW - Godunov-type schemes
KW - Momentum conservation
KW - Nonlinear shallow-water equations
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U2 - 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.11.007
DO - 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.11.007
M3 - Article
AN - SCOPUS:76949100376
SN - 0378-3839
VL - 57
SP - 407
EP - 423
JO - Coastal Engineering
JF - Coastal Engineering
IS - 4
ER -